4) Attach supply line to the straight or angle stop valve. Place the washer, then the plastic nut on the tank end of the connecting pipe and bend the pipe to fit into the inlet hole in the water inlet regulator. Draw the nut up tightly.   When using a ready made supply line, the washers will already be in place.

5) Connect the plastic tubing from the top of the water inlet regulator into its holding ring inside the overflow tube.

6) If the flush handle (trip lever) is not already installed in the tank, install the handle by inserting it through the opening in the tank.  One thing to remember is that toilet tank trip levers have left hand threads.  Fit the holding nut over the lever and thread it on the threaded portion of the handle. Tighten with wrench to a snug fit. Install chain from the flapper through the last hole of the lever arm. If necessary the hook can be relocated to shorten the chain so that there is a minimum of slack. Bend the hook closed to prevent it from disengaging.

7) Turn the water on by opening the angle or straight stop. The tank should fill to the "water line" marked inside the tank. If not, bend the brass rod that supports the float until the tank stops filling at the "water line". Place the lid on the tank. Snap the plastic bolt caps firmly in place, on top of the bolts projecting through the china base. If the bolt covers provided with the toilet do not snap on the mounting bolts, place a small ball of plumber's putty inside the cap to hold it firmly in place. If the bolts extend too far above the toilet flange to accommodate the bolt covers, carefully cut excess off above nuts with a hack saw. Install the toilet seat and lid.